The Brunei Diaries
Saturday: 27th of May
The eight hour flight was uneventful and pleasant. I was sitting next to a nice, quiet Asian bloke who helped me find the ear-phone speaker, how to operate my small television and how to put the corded television remote back in its holder. I'm not exactly the most tech-savvy person...
I spent the whole flight watching Victoria and somewhere in the middle I had a little kip.
I arrived in Singapore at 3:10PM that afternoon. Nervous but excited, I disembarked the plane - and couldn't stop myself from muttering 'Holy shit!' when I saw the immigration lines.
It was organised chaos; I spent about twenty minutes waiting in that line before heading through security check and then went to pick up my luggage. I went and stood at the first conveyor belt I saw for a good five minutes before I looked up at the sign and realised I was waiting at the wrong place.
I moved to the next conveyor belt and found my suitcase. Then I was free.
I headed out the doors that said "Nothing to declare" and found A. waiting for me with a hug and a Reese's chocolate and peanut bar. He whisks me to the taxi rank and we don't even have to wait due to Singaporian organisation.
Then we are headed down the highway which is lush with foliage and flowers and there are trees for miles that have given me serious garden envy.
The taxi-driver points out a few landmarks on the way to our hotel. By the time we reach our room I am utterly exhausted but there isn't much time to rest before we went and saw the Air concert.
At first I was shocked when I saw our room. It was sleek and modern and...
"Oh my gosh! There's no wall to the toilet!" I gasped when I saw the bathroom through the polished, peek-a-boo glass. "Oh...uh...I'm sorry, I didn't know about this." A. replied just as the phone rang.
A. answered it. It turned out to be the front desk. "I've gotta go and sort this out." A. muttered and walked out the door. If this was a movie about a wayward honeymoon it would have been funny if I hadn't found the switch which was clearly labelled 'blinds' just inside the bathroom door.
With a flick of a switch, the blinds came down and I gave a sigh of relief because as a couple there's too much you know about the other person without adding a dunny show to the mix!
So I freshened up, relishing being able to brush my teeth for the first time since Friday morning and after I ate my Reece's chocolate bar I felt more human than I had that day.
Like me, A. was very relieved that I had resolved the bathroom problem.
We go for a walk and A. takes me to a seafood restaurant where we get a table overlooking the canal, watching the boats go by as the sun sets and the city lights come on. The city clock strikes 7pm and dings three times. It was bloody perfect.
We both ate a huge bowl of chicken laksa that was incredibly sublime that I wanted to cry when I couldn't eat anymore.
With our bellies full we walked over to where the Air concert was being held and then stopped at Haagen Daz for a bite of dessert.
Air was like nothing I had ever heard before, A. and I stayed around until after 'Sexy Boy' and walked out of that concert feeling chill. We go for a walk through the underground and go to a corner shop and buy hazelnut wafers and Milo in a can before taking it back to the hotel where I am promptly passed out at quarter to eleven.
SUNDAY: 28th of May
The alarm wakes us up at 3:30AM. Our flight doesn't leave until 8:10AM but A. likes to get on the road early. We leave the hotel at 4:00AM and arrive at the airport at 4:30AM. Our check-in counter wasn't open yet so we sat around for an hour. "It's better to be early and be on time rather than run late." A. explained. "It's okay." I mumble and our check-in opens. .
Once we dispensed of our suitcases we headed over to O'Leary's Irish bar and eat a hearty breakfast of scrambled egg and bacon.
Our one hour flight to Kuala Lumpur was okay. But once we got there things became a bit stressful.
We were strapped for time and the Immigration line was long and windy and there was only two immigration desks open. It was the longest thirty minutes of our lives and when the lady behind us wanted to cut through the line, that turned up the heat. A girl and a friend who were headed to Sandakan objected very strongly, saying that their flight was leaving in twenty minutes.
Thankfully, a few more immigration desks were opened and within moments the line was moving a lot faster. A. and I arrived promptly at our gate five minutes before boarding time. When it came my turn I realised that I had accidentally given the flight attendant my ticket to Kuala Lumpur, not Miri - so I had to duck out of the line with A. snapping at me from the other side going. "Where is it?!"
"I don't know!" I yelled back as I frantically unzipped my carry-on. Fortunately my ticket was there and with a sigh of relief, a lovely gent let me go infront of him so I could join A. on the other side.
"I'm sorry for snapping at you. It's been a stressful hour." A. apologised once we were settled in our seats. "It's okay. I'm sorry for being grumpy."
"You're just tired." He said and tweaked my nose affectionately.
The two hour flight to Miri breezed by quickly, I watched Table 19 - it wasn't so quick with the laughs but it had some interesting twists. I also watched a little bit of Harry Potter and The Sorcerer's Stone before the plane touched down. We went through the cycle of security check, immigration and with a swipe of our pass-ports we were finally free to pick up our suitcases.
A.'s parents met us at the airport and it took an hour to drive through Miri to the border, a thirty minute wait ensued before we handed over our immigration papers and flashed our passports before we were off again. We stocked up at the bottle-shop before driving into Brunei. Another half an hour we were at the house. I had an Alice-In-Wonderland moment as I took in the white tiled floors and the biggest kitchen I had ever seen. We dropped off the suitcases and groceries before getting back in the car and driving to the yacht club for dinner.
After a filling dinner and dessert, we got in the car and headed back - I fell asleep and woke up just as we reached the simpang (street) where the house was.
It was an early night for all.
MONDAY: 29th of May
I slept until eight'0clock the next morning and at 10:00AM we headed to the Regalia Museum which
strongly exhalted the Sultan and the royal family; it was a maze of history, art, military and gifts from foreign countries. The most curious gift that I saw was a white marble slab that had been broken in a few different places, but all the pieces had been reassembled so it reminds me of a massive jig-saw. The words carved on the slab were what appeared to be Arabic and I couldn't help feeling that whatever was carved was of great significance.
The two huge mile-stones for the Sultan were his coronation and first wedding, these events have been commemorated in such detail that you feel like you were there.
To western society, this would be considered excessive and unhealthy idolation, but for the people of Brunei Darusallem, it is their way of showing gratitude and respect to their sovereign.
On the way back from the Regalia Museum, we popped into the grocery store - it was a bit alarming as there were signs that said "Keep a safe distance from the monkeys".
Unfortunately, the monkeys didn't show up - but there were three stray dogs milling around the car-park. Strays are a very common occurrence here which is something that I find sad because dogs are noble, intelligent and gentle animals who will love and protect if they are treated well.
The afternoon was quiet, I mostly worked on my latest book and went for a dip in the pool.
It's wet season in Brunei at moment, the sun coming and going but the humidity is constant and yesterday was the first day of Ramadan.
Ramadan is a holy fasting period where Muslims do not eat from sun-up to sun-down.
Buisnesses open later and close early and children go home earlier from school.
Word has it that by quarter past six during the month of Ramadan, practicing Muslims are sitting around the dinner table with forks at the ready.
TUESDAY - 30th of May
On Tuesday morning, I went with A.'s mother to the special education school where she volunteers for reading-time and craft. The library is the size of a rumpus room and is brightly decorated with book posters and the alphabet labelled shelves full of books, puzzles and games. I read a couple of books to two groups of children and teenagers who were so happy and full of life; it was truly a humbling and holistic experience. In the afternoon we drove to the yacht club and got caught in torrential rain which we waited out, huddled under the flimsy tin shacks that cover the boats.
When the rain was lighter, we drove off to get Thai and showed up at the restaurant in good spirits and looking like we had been participating in a war of super soaker.
WEDNESDAY: 31st of May
Wednesday morning dawned bright and hot, the perfect day for being sea-farers and explorers.
We loaded up the car with cold boxes of food and drinks and began the sixty minute drive to the yacht club. With so many things to take between two cars, it took time to transfer everything we needed to the boat but by 11:15AM we were on the water, making foamy white ribbons as the boat surged powerfully towards an island surrounded by mangroves.
With the sun above us and water below us, the world looked pretty damn perfect from where we were sitting.
We made a stop at an island, carrying everything we needed from the boat to the island.
On the island were these crude tin and metal shelters with wooden tables and long-seats.
There were out-houses that I didn't dare use because I don't share well with critters, snakes and monkeys.
We ate, sang songs, walked along the beach, some people snorkelled and swam and others sat in the shelter and had a good yarn.
All too soon it was time to leave, we cleared the table and loaded everything we had brought back into the boat before a final voyage back to the mainland where I discovered that despite my best intentions, the Bruneian sun had given me a temporary souvenir.
Back home we unloaded the cold boxes, gave the left-over meat to the dog and freshened up for a night in with State of Origin.
THURSDAY: 1st of June
To wind down from our island adventure, we spent most of Thursday watching a true crime documentary on the telly before the packing began. At 1:00PM in the afternoon we loaded up the suitcases into the trunk of the car and headed down the high-way where we picked up A.'s Dad from work and drove to the ferry that would take us to Labuan.
Labuan does not look very appealing on the first impression, it made me think of the aftermath of a wild party that many people had left except the ones who dutifully stay to try and make the party go on with what is left. A. told me to keep the strap of my hand-bag over my shoulder and to stay with him at all times.
It was a rainy afternoon in Labuan and as the night went on, the rain lashed angrily against anything that was uncovered. After dinner at the Labuan yacht club, the rain drenched us even with umbrellas. We hit up the Irish bar and warmed ourselves with grog and hot beverages where I discovered a love for Irish coffee. That night the Labuan night-life blared noisily through our hotel room, the live-bands and the hoons laughed, ya-hooed and sang (on-key and off-key) into the small hours of the morning.
FRIDAY: 2nd of June
The day began at 4:00AM and in the pitch darkness we climbed into a cab, yawning and rubbing our eyes as the driver took us to the airport. It was a half hour flight from Labuan to Malaysia. The shortest flight I have ever taken. On our arrival to Sabah, we have breakfast at the airport and arrange for an UBER driver to take us to Mount Kinabalu. For some reason the UBER driver won't take us any further than the bus station. The bus station is full of taxi-drivers, bus charters, UBER drivers and randoms who want to help foreigners get where ever they want to go.
The first guy who approached us asked where we wanted to go. Thinking he was a taxi-driver we told him we wanted to get to Mount Kinabalu and he offered to take us for $150.
This offer turned out too good to be true, because when he showed us his car and he said to a guy in the front passenger seat. "You have to get out."
"No, you're not a taxi-driver." A.'s Dad told him before walking away. After that three different taxi drivers encircled us and started yelling out prices, each of them trying to give a better offer than the last. Then the guy who masqueraded as a taxi-driver jumped in and tried to lower the price he had given us before. We walked away and left them to argue among themselves.
From that experience I learnt to be non-committal until I see the vehicle in question.
We hop on an eight-seater charter bus for Mount Kinabalu. It's a blazing hot day, so hot I can feel the rays of the sun through the glass. It's a three hour ride to Mount Kinabalu but its worth every bump in the road. A.'s Dad described Mount Kinabalu as 'prehistoric', when I saw it I felt that was the most apt description. The further we go into the mountains, the foggier it gets.
Lush green land is all around us; jungles, hill-side crops and mountains. The air is fresher and life is slow here. Old family houses that still stand ragged and noble and newer houses for homes and B&BS. Mount Kinabalu Heritage Resort and Spa is right at the top of a mountain that overlooks the star of the show. A.'s family used to come here back in the early 90's when they lived in Malaysia.
That night as we were walking down the mountain in search of dinner, a dog fell into step beside us.
At first we were wary of her but in the twenty-five minutes it took to walk down the mountain, I knew I would never forget her. I named her Garda, because of her protective instincts. To the villages and properties of the mountain she would be considered no more than a flea-ridden pest but I saw that in another life she would have made the perfect family dog and my heart broke when I had to leave her. When I thought about it later, I realised that she had made the best of what her vagabond life had given her. She walks tourists up and down the mountain all day long, surely knowing that they will leave. She keeps herself well-fed and content but I just wish I could have given her more than ''God bless you, Garda."
We find a restaurant/bakery at the bottom of the mountain. The hospitality there was wonderful after the day of travel we had. We eat a hearty dinner and a cup-cake for dessert and the receptionist, Amy, gives us a ride back to our hotel free of charge. Aside from giving travel-weary strangers a lift, Amy gave us the number of a reliable taxi driver. After she pulled away from the curb, I thought about how help can come in the most unexpected places.
After an exhausting day, we fell into bed early to be back on the road first thing in the morning.
SATURDAY: 3rd of June
Our journey from Mount Kinabalu to Kota Kinabulu is quiet and lasts three hours.
We get to a ritzy hotel only to find out that we are actually booked into its ugly brother that has so many red flags on Google that we don't keep the booking. We head back to the ritzy hotel foyer and use their internet to book another place just around the corner, Marina Court.
Marina Court is a middle working-class serviced apartment with its own laundry room and television with internet, it's also clean and the sheets have no lice. Marina Court is a pink fortress and is secure as long as you put the giant padlock on the iron gate outside the apartment. Just to be on the safe side, I locedk my valuables inside my suit-case and when I was out in public I turned my engagement ring downwards so that people would just see a plain silver band and not the diamond underneath.
Marina Court is right next to the open sewer and throughout the city every time I walk over a drain the smell of eau de sewage wafts up into my face.
We have an Italian dinner of pizza on the dock and then go to Nando's for ice-cream before heading back to Marina Court for yet another early night before the next big adventure.
SUNDAY - 4th of June
The next big adventure was a half day of snorkelling. I was a little hesitant to try it at first to the point when I thought about begging off to read on the beach with a good book.
But a writer who is unchallenged and sticks to what is easy and predictable has nothing to write about.
Trying something new is like meeting a potential friend for the first time. You know don't know the first thing about them and so at first there is awkward hesitance before you feel comfortable enough with them. But after awhile when you get into the flow, you start to find a rhythm and then gain confidence. One thing I know is that I'd like to do snorkelling again soon before I forget how.
MONDAY 5th of June
We slept in until 10:00am and left Marina Court just before lunch. We spent two hours walking through shops before stopping for lunch at International Pancakes House.
Then we did more browsing. Then I saw something. In the middle of the afternoon on a crowded street. An Indian man locked a Muslim woman into a caged area where the rubbish is kept. She must have been taking the rubbish out when he followed with the padlock.
She laughed nervously, saying "Stop! Let me out!" But he locked her in. I gave him the darkest look and he looked up and saw me. I don't know what he did after that. I just hope that he let her out.
I felt terrible leaving her there, I let down a fellow woman because I was afraid of that asshole.
One street away I asked A. if we could go back, make sure he had let her out but A. said it would be best not to get involved as we had no idea what that guy was capable of.
Still, I feel so ashamed.
TUESDAY: 6th of June
We fly out to Labuan and stay the night there, before we catch the ferry back to Brunei we stock up on grog and chocolate. There are no public drinking houses in Brunei. Muslims are not allowed to drink at all by law. But there is a lovely little loop-hole which allows Westerners to bring alcohol in duty-free to drink in their homes.
Unfortunately one bottle of wine did not survive the crossing after being at the bottom of the pile of luggage and soaked A.'s Mum's clothes, fortunately it was the white wine that was smashed and not the red!
WEDNESDAY: 7th of June
A. and I flew out of Brunei on the 9:15am flight to Singapore where we have a twelve hour wait until our flight back home.
When we arrived in Singapore we checked our luggage in. I said a hesitant good bye to the small carry-on suitcase which held my laptop in hope that in Australia it would still be intact.
Then A. and I got on a train to Bugis. We had brunch at Macdonald's and went to the Bugis Markets in search of last-minute gifts for friends and family. Back at the airport we did more browsing, I bought two more books I thought I would need for the eight hour flight, a Victorian suspense and a book by Elizabeth Gilbert.
I took photos in the butterfly garden and A. found me a relaxing nook to chill out for a couple of hours to read before he swept us into the Gold Lounge. We didn't go hungry or thirsty in there!
At 10:30pm we headed to the flight-gate and tried to stay awake. At 12:30AM we walked onto the tarmac and boarded the plane. At 12:45AM the plane was speeding down the run-way and took to the skies. I fell asleep just after glimpsing the starry night.
I slept through the first four hours of the flight only to be tentatively nudged by A. when breakfast was being served.
The flight went fast after breakfast and we arrived in Brisbane at 10:03AM.
Once we made it through customs, we realised we would be anchored in our home-port for awhile, we felt sad for a couple of days before our everyday lives swallowed us up again; for now it's good to be home.
The eight hour flight was uneventful and pleasant. I was sitting next to a nice, quiet Asian bloke who helped me find the ear-phone speaker, how to operate my small television and how to put the corded television remote back in its holder. I'm not exactly the most tech-savvy person...
I spent the whole flight watching Victoria and somewhere in the middle I had a little kip.
I arrived in Singapore at 3:10PM that afternoon. Nervous but excited, I disembarked the plane - and couldn't stop myself from muttering 'Holy shit!' when I saw the immigration lines.
It was organised chaos; I spent about twenty minutes waiting in that line before heading through security check and then went to pick up my luggage. I went and stood at the first conveyor belt I saw for a good five minutes before I looked up at the sign and realised I was waiting at the wrong place.
I moved to the next conveyor belt and found my suitcase. Then I was free.
I headed out the doors that said "Nothing to declare" and found A. waiting for me with a hug and a Reese's chocolate and peanut bar. He whisks me to the taxi rank and we don't even have to wait due to Singaporian organisation.
Then we are headed down the highway which is lush with foliage and flowers and there are trees for miles that have given me serious garden envy.
The taxi-driver points out a few landmarks on the way to our hotel. By the time we reach our room I am utterly exhausted but there isn't much time to rest before we went and saw the Air concert.
At first I was shocked when I saw our room. It was sleek and modern and...
"Oh my gosh! There's no wall to the toilet!" I gasped when I saw the bathroom through the polished, peek-a-boo glass. "Oh...uh...I'm sorry, I didn't know about this." A. replied just as the phone rang.
A. answered it. It turned out to be the front desk. "I've gotta go and sort this out." A. muttered and walked out the door. If this was a movie about a wayward honeymoon it would have been funny if I hadn't found the switch which was clearly labelled 'blinds' just inside the bathroom door.
With a flick of a switch, the blinds came down and I gave a sigh of relief because as a couple there's too much you know about the other person without adding a dunny show to the mix!
So I freshened up, relishing being able to brush my teeth for the first time since Friday morning and after I ate my Reece's chocolate bar I felt more human than I had that day.
Like me, A. was very relieved that I had resolved the bathroom problem.
We go for a walk and A. takes me to a seafood restaurant where we get a table overlooking the canal, watching the boats go by as the sun sets and the city lights come on. The city clock strikes 7pm and dings three times. It was bloody perfect.
We both ate a huge bowl of chicken laksa that was incredibly sublime that I wanted to cry when I couldn't eat anymore.
With our bellies full we walked over to where the Air concert was being held and then stopped at Haagen Daz for a bite of dessert.
Air was like nothing I had ever heard before, A. and I stayed around until after 'Sexy Boy' and walked out of that concert feeling chill. We go for a walk through the underground and go to a corner shop and buy hazelnut wafers and Milo in a can before taking it back to the hotel where I am promptly passed out at quarter to eleven.
SUNDAY: 28th of May
The alarm wakes us up at 3:30AM. Our flight doesn't leave until 8:10AM but A. likes to get on the road early. We leave the hotel at 4:00AM and arrive at the airport at 4:30AM. Our check-in counter wasn't open yet so we sat around for an hour. "It's better to be early and be on time rather than run late." A. explained. "It's okay." I mumble and our check-in opens. .
Once we dispensed of our suitcases we headed over to O'Leary's Irish bar and eat a hearty breakfast of scrambled egg and bacon.
Our one hour flight to Kuala Lumpur was okay. But once we got there things became a bit stressful.
We were strapped for time and the Immigration line was long and windy and there was only two immigration desks open. It was the longest thirty minutes of our lives and when the lady behind us wanted to cut through the line, that turned up the heat. A girl and a friend who were headed to Sandakan objected very strongly, saying that their flight was leaving in twenty minutes.
Thankfully, a few more immigration desks were opened and within moments the line was moving a lot faster. A. and I arrived promptly at our gate five minutes before boarding time. When it came my turn I realised that I had accidentally given the flight attendant my ticket to Kuala Lumpur, not Miri - so I had to duck out of the line with A. snapping at me from the other side going. "Where is it?!"
"I don't know!" I yelled back as I frantically unzipped my carry-on. Fortunately my ticket was there and with a sigh of relief, a lovely gent let me go infront of him so I could join A. on the other side.
"I'm sorry for snapping at you. It's been a stressful hour." A. apologised once we were settled in our seats. "It's okay. I'm sorry for being grumpy."
"You're just tired." He said and tweaked my nose affectionately.
The two hour flight to Miri breezed by quickly, I watched Table 19 - it wasn't so quick with the laughs but it had some interesting twists. I also watched a little bit of Harry Potter and The Sorcerer's Stone before the plane touched down. We went through the cycle of security check, immigration and with a swipe of our pass-ports we were finally free to pick up our suitcases.
A.'s parents met us at the airport and it took an hour to drive through Miri to the border, a thirty minute wait ensued before we handed over our immigration papers and flashed our passports before we were off again. We stocked up at the bottle-shop before driving into Brunei. Another half an hour we were at the house. I had an Alice-In-Wonderland moment as I took in the white tiled floors and the biggest kitchen I had ever seen. We dropped off the suitcases and groceries before getting back in the car and driving to the yacht club for dinner.
After a filling dinner and dessert, we got in the car and headed back - I fell asleep and woke up just as we reached the simpang (street) where the house was.
It was an early night for all.
MONDAY: 29th of May
I slept until eight'0clock the next morning and at 10:00AM we headed to the Regalia Museum which
strongly exhalted the Sultan and the royal family; it was a maze of history, art, military and gifts from foreign countries. The most curious gift that I saw was a white marble slab that had been broken in a few different places, but all the pieces had been reassembled so it reminds me of a massive jig-saw. The words carved on the slab were what appeared to be Arabic and I couldn't help feeling that whatever was carved was of great significance.
The two huge mile-stones for the Sultan were his coronation and first wedding, these events have been commemorated in such detail that you feel like you were there.
To western society, this would be considered excessive and unhealthy idolation, but for the people of Brunei Darusallem, it is their way of showing gratitude and respect to their sovereign.
On the way back from the Regalia Museum, we popped into the grocery store - it was a bit alarming as there were signs that said "Keep a safe distance from the monkeys".
Unfortunately, the monkeys didn't show up - but there were three stray dogs milling around the car-park. Strays are a very common occurrence here which is something that I find sad because dogs are noble, intelligent and gentle animals who will love and protect if they are treated well.
The afternoon was quiet, I mostly worked on my latest book and went for a dip in the pool.
It's wet season in Brunei at moment, the sun coming and going but the humidity is constant and yesterday was the first day of Ramadan.
Ramadan is a holy fasting period where Muslims do not eat from sun-up to sun-down.
Buisnesses open later and close early and children go home earlier from school.
Word has it that by quarter past six during the month of Ramadan, practicing Muslims are sitting around the dinner table with forks at the ready.
TUESDAY - 30th of May
On Tuesday morning, I went with A.'s mother to the special education school where she volunteers for reading-time and craft. The library is the size of a rumpus room and is brightly decorated with book posters and the alphabet labelled shelves full of books, puzzles and games. I read a couple of books to two groups of children and teenagers who were so happy and full of life; it was truly a humbling and holistic experience. In the afternoon we drove to the yacht club and got caught in torrential rain which we waited out, huddled under the flimsy tin shacks that cover the boats.
When the rain was lighter, we drove off to get Thai and showed up at the restaurant in good spirits and looking like we had been participating in a war of super soaker.
WEDNESDAY: 31st of May
Wednesday morning dawned bright and hot, the perfect day for being sea-farers and explorers.
We loaded up the car with cold boxes of food and drinks and began the sixty minute drive to the yacht club. With so many things to take between two cars, it took time to transfer everything we needed to the boat but by 11:15AM we were on the water, making foamy white ribbons as the boat surged powerfully towards an island surrounded by mangroves.
With the sun above us and water below us, the world looked pretty damn perfect from where we were sitting.
We made a stop at an island, carrying everything we needed from the boat to the island.
On the island were these crude tin and metal shelters with wooden tables and long-seats.
There were out-houses that I didn't dare use because I don't share well with critters, snakes and monkeys.
We ate, sang songs, walked along the beach, some people snorkelled and swam and others sat in the shelter and had a good yarn.
All too soon it was time to leave, we cleared the table and loaded everything we had brought back into the boat before a final voyage back to the mainland where I discovered that despite my best intentions, the Bruneian sun had given me a temporary souvenir.
Back home we unloaded the cold boxes, gave the left-over meat to the dog and freshened up for a night in with State of Origin.
THURSDAY: 1st of June
To wind down from our island adventure, we spent most of Thursday watching a true crime documentary on the telly before the packing began. At 1:00PM in the afternoon we loaded up the suitcases into the trunk of the car and headed down the high-way where we picked up A.'s Dad from work and drove to the ferry that would take us to Labuan.
Labuan does not look very appealing on the first impression, it made me think of the aftermath of a wild party that many people had left except the ones who dutifully stay to try and make the party go on with what is left. A. told me to keep the strap of my hand-bag over my shoulder and to stay with him at all times.
It was a rainy afternoon in Labuan and as the night went on, the rain lashed angrily against anything that was uncovered. After dinner at the Labuan yacht club, the rain drenched us even with umbrellas. We hit up the Irish bar and warmed ourselves with grog and hot beverages where I discovered a love for Irish coffee. That night the Labuan night-life blared noisily through our hotel room, the live-bands and the hoons laughed, ya-hooed and sang (on-key and off-key) into the small hours of the morning.
FRIDAY: 2nd of June
The day began at 4:00AM and in the pitch darkness we climbed into a cab, yawning and rubbing our eyes as the driver took us to the airport. It was a half hour flight from Labuan to Malaysia. The shortest flight I have ever taken. On our arrival to Sabah, we have breakfast at the airport and arrange for an UBER driver to take us to Mount Kinabalu. For some reason the UBER driver won't take us any further than the bus station. The bus station is full of taxi-drivers, bus charters, UBER drivers and randoms who want to help foreigners get where ever they want to go.
The first guy who approached us asked where we wanted to go. Thinking he was a taxi-driver we told him we wanted to get to Mount Kinabalu and he offered to take us for $150.
This offer turned out too good to be true, because when he showed us his car and he said to a guy in the front passenger seat. "You have to get out."
"No, you're not a taxi-driver." A.'s Dad told him before walking away. After that three different taxi drivers encircled us and started yelling out prices, each of them trying to give a better offer than the last. Then the guy who masqueraded as a taxi-driver jumped in and tried to lower the price he had given us before. We walked away and left them to argue among themselves.
From that experience I learnt to be non-committal until I see the vehicle in question.
We hop on an eight-seater charter bus for Mount Kinabalu. It's a blazing hot day, so hot I can feel the rays of the sun through the glass. It's a three hour ride to Mount Kinabalu but its worth every bump in the road. A.'s Dad described Mount Kinabalu as 'prehistoric', when I saw it I felt that was the most apt description. The further we go into the mountains, the foggier it gets.
Lush green land is all around us; jungles, hill-side crops and mountains. The air is fresher and life is slow here. Old family houses that still stand ragged and noble and newer houses for homes and B&BS. Mount Kinabalu Heritage Resort and Spa is right at the top of a mountain that overlooks the star of the show. A.'s family used to come here back in the early 90's when they lived in Malaysia.
That night as we were walking down the mountain in search of dinner, a dog fell into step beside us.
At first we were wary of her but in the twenty-five minutes it took to walk down the mountain, I knew I would never forget her. I named her Garda, because of her protective instincts. To the villages and properties of the mountain she would be considered no more than a flea-ridden pest but I saw that in another life she would have made the perfect family dog and my heart broke when I had to leave her. When I thought about it later, I realised that she had made the best of what her vagabond life had given her. She walks tourists up and down the mountain all day long, surely knowing that they will leave. She keeps herself well-fed and content but I just wish I could have given her more than ''God bless you, Garda."
We find a restaurant/bakery at the bottom of the mountain. The hospitality there was wonderful after the day of travel we had. We eat a hearty dinner and a cup-cake for dessert and the receptionist, Amy, gives us a ride back to our hotel free of charge. Aside from giving travel-weary strangers a lift, Amy gave us the number of a reliable taxi driver. After she pulled away from the curb, I thought about how help can come in the most unexpected places.
After an exhausting day, we fell into bed early to be back on the road first thing in the morning.
SATURDAY: 3rd of June
Our journey from Mount Kinabalu to Kota Kinabulu is quiet and lasts three hours.
We get to a ritzy hotel only to find out that we are actually booked into its ugly brother that has so many red flags on Google that we don't keep the booking. We head back to the ritzy hotel foyer and use their internet to book another place just around the corner, Marina Court.
Marina Court is a middle working-class serviced apartment with its own laundry room and television with internet, it's also clean and the sheets have no lice. Marina Court is a pink fortress and is secure as long as you put the giant padlock on the iron gate outside the apartment. Just to be on the safe side, I locedk my valuables inside my suit-case and when I was out in public I turned my engagement ring downwards so that people would just see a plain silver band and not the diamond underneath.
Marina Court is right next to the open sewer and throughout the city every time I walk over a drain the smell of eau de sewage wafts up into my face.
We have an Italian dinner of pizza on the dock and then go to Nando's for ice-cream before heading back to Marina Court for yet another early night before the next big adventure.
SUNDAY - 4th of June
The next big adventure was a half day of snorkelling. I was a little hesitant to try it at first to the point when I thought about begging off to read on the beach with a good book.
But a writer who is unchallenged and sticks to what is easy and predictable has nothing to write about.
Trying something new is like meeting a potential friend for the first time. You know don't know the first thing about them and so at first there is awkward hesitance before you feel comfortable enough with them. But after awhile when you get into the flow, you start to find a rhythm and then gain confidence. One thing I know is that I'd like to do snorkelling again soon before I forget how.
MONDAY 5th of June
We slept in until 10:00am and left Marina Court just before lunch. We spent two hours walking through shops before stopping for lunch at International Pancakes House.
Then we did more browsing. Then I saw something. In the middle of the afternoon on a crowded street. An Indian man locked a Muslim woman into a caged area where the rubbish is kept. She must have been taking the rubbish out when he followed with the padlock.
She laughed nervously, saying "Stop! Let me out!" But he locked her in. I gave him the darkest look and he looked up and saw me. I don't know what he did after that. I just hope that he let her out.
I felt terrible leaving her there, I let down a fellow woman because I was afraid of that asshole.
One street away I asked A. if we could go back, make sure he had let her out but A. said it would be best not to get involved as we had no idea what that guy was capable of.
Still, I feel so ashamed.
TUESDAY: 6th of June
We fly out to Labuan and stay the night there, before we catch the ferry back to Brunei we stock up on grog and chocolate. There are no public drinking houses in Brunei. Muslims are not allowed to drink at all by law. But there is a lovely little loop-hole which allows Westerners to bring alcohol in duty-free to drink in their homes.
Unfortunately one bottle of wine did not survive the crossing after being at the bottom of the pile of luggage and soaked A.'s Mum's clothes, fortunately it was the white wine that was smashed and not the red!
WEDNESDAY: 7th of June
A. and I flew out of Brunei on the 9:15am flight to Singapore where we have a twelve hour wait until our flight back home.
When we arrived in Singapore we checked our luggage in. I said a hesitant good bye to the small carry-on suitcase which held my laptop in hope that in Australia it would still be intact.
Then A. and I got on a train to Bugis. We had brunch at Macdonald's and went to the Bugis Markets in search of last-minute gifts for friends and family. Back at the airport we did more browsing, I bought two more books I thought I would need for the eight hour flight, a Victorian suspense and a book by Elizabeth Gilbert.
I took photos in the butterfly garden and A. found me a relaxing nook to chill out for a couple of hours to read before he swept us into the Gold Lounge. We didn't go hungry or thirsty in there!
At 10:30pm we headed to the flight-gate and tried to stay awake. At 12:30AM we walked onto the tarmac and boarded the plane. At 12:45AM the plane was speeding down the run-way and took to the skies. I fell asleep just after glimpsing the starry night.
I slept through the first four hours of the flight only to be tentatively nudged by A. when breakfast was being served.
The flight went fast after breakfast and we arrived in Brisbane at 10:03AM.
Once we made it through customs, we realised we would be anchored in our home-port for awhile, we felt sad for a couple of days before our everyday lives swallowed us up again; for now it's good to be home.
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